What you should know about gold hallmarks

What is a gold hallmark and which one is best?
A gold hallmark indicates purity. Pure gold is very soft and cannot be used alone in jewelry making. To strengthen it, it is alloyed with silver or copper. In Poland, there are seven official hallmarks, each corresponding to a percentage of pure gold in the alloy. The higher the carat, the more valuable and expensive the jewelry. Today, the most popular jewelry is made of 14-carat (58.5%) or 8-carat (33.3%) gold.

The assay mark – what does it mean?
Every gold item must bear an assay mark, which confirms authenticity and specifies the percentage of gold it contains. In Poland, this mark includes: the type of precious metal (gold is symbolized by a knight’s head), the hallmark number, and the letter of the assay office that certified the piece. There is also an international European convention where the hallmark is represented by scales.

Where to find the hallmark on jewelry?
To avoid doubts about the quality of gold you’re buying, it’s best to shop with reputable jewelers. The hallmark should be visible, for example inside a ring, on the back of a pendant, or near the clasp. If there’s no mark, the gold may not be genuine. A certificate of authenticity should also be provided. Extra caution is advised when buying gold jewelry abroad, since rules differ and hallmarks may not even be used in some countries.

Solid gold vs. gold-plated jewelry
It might seem that the higher the gold content, the more durable the jewelry – but that’s not true. High-purity gold, such as 18 or 24 carats, is beautiful but scratches easily. On the other hand, alloys with too little gold oxidize faster. That’s why 14-carat (585) gold is often considered the perfect compromise: rich enough to keep its shine, yet strong enough for everyday wear. This balance makes it one of the most popular choices in jewelry making.